Rescuer Portrait
February 13, 2025
Tshering Pande Bhote is an IFMGA/NNMGA Certified Mountain Guide from eastern Nepal, one of only a few such guides from south Asia. During the summer, he guides in Norway but spends the majority of his time in Nepal. In 2010, Bhote became one of the first long-line rescuers in Nepal. His career is remarkable — he has climbed Mount Everest seven times and all the mountains over 8,000 meters in Nepal and the Alps. We had the privilege of sitting down with Tshering, who generously shared insights into what search and rescue operations are like in the Himalayas.
Why did you become a rescuer?
Over the past 30 years, I have witnessed numerous mountaineering accidents in the Everest region. This experience opened my eyes to the shortcomings of Nepal's rescue system, motivating me to take action and drive improvements whenever possible. Throughout the years, I have participated in rescues involving helicopter crashes, earthquakes, avalanches, and more. Ultimately, I achieved my goal of becoming a rescuer, dedicated to saving lives and enhancing the rescue system in Nepal.
What is the biggest difference between rescue in other regions and Nepal?
The biggest challenge is the high altitude of the mountains and the helicopter weight limits. Because of these restrictions, the teams that are sent out on rescue missions have to be dialed in and small. To make things more complicated, these teams are not allowed to use a winch, leaving helicopter rescue crews exposed in a long-line rescue scenario.
Additionally, these small rescue teams require search and rescue professionals to be jacks of all trades. They’re often working with limited information and must travel with a plethora of rescue gear in order to be prepared for a range of rescue scenarios. It requires extra training and dedication for these rescue professionals, but despite it being a lot of work, I enjoy it regardless.
The last hurdle search and rescue teams must navigate is the issue of insurance. In Nepal, insurance companies must be contacted and give their approval before rescue teams can set out, adding an additional layer of planning and urgency.
How are rescues structured in the Himalayas and Nepal?
The infrastructure for rescues in the Himalayas is constantly being improved.
Since 2010, authorities have tried to implement more structure, but unfortunately, the system isn’t fully there yet due to complications at the political level.
There was a search and rescue organization similar to what’s available in European countries with the number 1199, but that ultimately ended. It is now the government's responsibility to navigate these types of situations.
What is your favorite part?
The most rewarding part of my work is saving lives and achieving a successful mission. Although there is sadness in recovering the bodies of victims, I also find value in being able to help families find closure. I lost my son-in-law on K2 in 2008, and for a long time, they didn’t know if he was dead or alive. I know how important rescue work is to both victims and their families, no matter the outcome.
Are there any specific rescues that you remember?
One remarkable incident involved a climber who fell over 2,000 meters on Everest. Despite breaking a leg, he miraculously survived. This rescue deeply impacted me, as it made me realize that the climber might still be waiting for help, prompting the rescue team to take significant risks to locate him. We worked tirelessly through the night, scaling heights of over 6,000 meters.
Another challenging mission occurred in 2006 when a helicopter carrying ministers and the prime minister crashed. The recovery was incredibly difficult due to the steep terrain, which included avalanche-prone areas. I noted that if the long-line rescue system had been available at that time, the operation would have been much simpler—just in and out.
In 2014, I traveled to Myanmar (formerly Burma) for a rescue mission. Teams from around the world responded to the crisis, with some helicopters tragically crashing during their attempts to save lives.
In total, I have lost count of how many rescues I have undertaken.
How do you manage to stay calm and focused in these situations?
I take each task one at a time. For example, if someone is bleeding, I try to stop it. I just do my best. I don’t get stressed and panicked. I have seen so many severe cases that I stay calm and focus on the work. It is almost normal.
I approach each task with a steady focus. For instance, when confronted with a bleeding patient, I calmly prioritize stopping the bleeding. My experience and demeanor help me stay composed and unflustered, even in the face of severe cases. My extensive experience allows me to maintain a sense of calmness that makes these high-pressure situations feel almost routine.
What are the most common rescues?
Most of my focus is on mountaineering accidents, which I am passionate about addressing. In the future, I envision dedicating my efforts to this area once the necessary infrastructure is established. For now, however, rescuers are often called upon to handle a wide range of emergencies in remote locations.
The biggest challenge going into the mountains as a rescuer?
One of the biggest challenges in helicopter missions is establishing trust between the rescuer and the pilot. I typically work with just one or two trusted pilots, but there are times when I have to collaborate with others—and sometimes I have to decline.
In one rescue a few years ago, they attempted a long-line operation, but the pilot made two unsuccessful attempts. Recognizing the high level of risk involved, I decided they needed to turn back and bring in a different pilot. Safety is paramount in these critical situations.
There is a new recommendation/law that you need to be electronically searchable to climb mountains over 6000 meters. What do you think of this?
I believe it's crucial for people to be well-equipped for their adventures.
Understanding the devices they carry is important, as different tools function in various ways. A RECCO reflector is very good tool for the climbers. It’s small and lightweight and doesn’t require any battery, that’s very suitable for the conditions in the Himalayas. And it makes you searchable for rescuers in case something goes wrong.
In the past, foreigners could embark on expeditions alone, but now, regulations require that they be accompanied by a local guide, enhancing safety for everyone involved.
What should people know when climbing these high mountains to stay safe?
Mountaineers must prioritize preparation and education. It’s essential to fully understand the challenges they face. Today, social media often showcases climbers who get lucky, leading many to mistakenly believe they can achieve the same feats without proper training. Even individuals with no climbing experience may assume it’s easy, but the reality is far more complex, and luck is not always on their side. Some climbers may not even know how to properly put on a harness.
I’d like to emphasize the importance of mastering basic knowledge and techniques, as this not only enhances individual safety but also aids rescuers and the entire mountaineering community. Despite 30 years of experience, I continue to learn new things about mountaineering and rescue, demonstrating that the journey of knowledge never truly ends.
